![]() Very easy job, make sure you have a 6pack on ice to help you through it. you may want to do this after your gasket repair. Mine sit high and out of the way because I used zipties to keep them away from the engine heat. if they are too much in the way, just label em with masking tape and unplug em. ![]() you'll know when each bolt is tight enough. not really because the holes are not that deep. However, if the leak is a few drips overnight, Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Leak. I have been a car guy for over 50 years, and I am usually dead set against any oil additives. Unless its a large leak and you plan on keeping it for many more miles. not too much or they'll strip and then the gasket will leak.Ĥ. Others may scoff, but replacing a crank seal at 150k is usually not worth the price. Tighten until you feel good resistence and then maybe a half turn more. no need for more on the side touching the engine or it could leak after it settles and dries.ģ. Thin layer on the cover edge where the gasket sits. Everything has to start somewhere, right?Ģ. I want to get this right the first time, and create a guide to help others. ![]() But it's almost never that easy, I'm willing to bet. It appears relatively straightforward: remove the bolts, scrape off the old gasket, lay down the new one, replace cover, and tighten the bolts. ![]() Transmission: 4-speed manual with overdrive or 5-speed manual or 4-speed automaticĭimensions: Overall length 487 cm, Wheelbase 277 cm.I'm planning on doing a more detailed write up on this once I've actually performed the work (pictures, possibly video depending on how ambitious I'm feeling), but I wanted to ask a few questions first.ġ) Do I have to drain the engine's oil to replace this gasket?Ģ) Is the use of high-temperature RTV sealant on the gasket recommended? If so, where? On both sides of the gasket, or just one?ģ) When tightening the bolts, how much force to use? I've heard these bolts require only hand-tightening plus 1/3 of a turn, but I don't want to create more problems down the line by undertightening these bolts.Ĥ) Is there a preferred pattern to installing or tightening the bolts? Diagonally beginning in the corners, or in the middle and going around the head clockwise?ĥ) Is it easier to remove the spark plug wires, or just rotate the valve cover down and to one side? Produced: 246,704 (Sedan), 231,677 (Estate)Įngine: 4-cylinder in-line SOHC unit, 1,986 cc, 88.9 x 80 mm 4-cylinder in-line SOHC unit 2,316 cc with/ without turbocharger, and 6-cylinder in-line SOHC 2,383 cc Turbo-Diesel In this it was the successor to cars like the Duett, the P220 'Amazon Estate car', the 145, the 245/240 Estate and the 740 Estate. The 940 estate was very similar to the 960 estate - except for its live rear axle instead of the independent multilink on the 960 - and provided comfortable and safe estate car motoring 'for the masses'. The 940 estate almost became as legendary as the predecessor 245/240 estate, not least being the last rear-wheel drive Volvo model (together with the S90/V90 series). Volvo being already a leading manufacturer of comfortable estate cars by that time, it was natural to include a 940 estate car in the product programme. These and other safety developments gained the model many international accolades, not least among them the "Prince Michael Road Safety Award" and the "Autocar & Motor" prize for the best safety features. Rear wiper motor and tail light tinkering on a Volvo 940 estate (945) Want to join me and blow some cash on these old Volvos Check out my patreon https://ww. Furthermore, an integrated child seat built into the rear seat's middle armrest could be specified as an option. Together with its luxury sibling the 960, a three-point inertia-reel seat belt was fitted as standard together with an adjustable head restraint in the middle of the rear seat, heralding a world breakthrough for these features. The Volvo 940 also launched a number of new safety features. A 4-cylinder petrol engine or a 6-cylinder turbo-diesel powered the Volvo 940, which resembled the 960. The new 940 replaced the 740 which, however, remained in production as the basic 740 GL model. The Volvo 940/960 range was introduced in autumn 1990.
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